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An open tin of Oscietra on black slate, a mother-of-pearl spoon resting in the grain, the blue lid leaning against it

Ten minutes on ice. Then the spoon.

Caviar asks for very little: cold, the right spoon, and a first taste with nothing in the way.

The service, in four steps

  1. An open tin of Oscietra nested in crushed ice in a clear glass bowl, the blue lid propped against it

    Ice.

    Lid up, nested in crushed ice for ten minutes. Cold keeps the grain firm and separate.

  2. The spoon.

    Mother-of-pearl, never steel. Take from the surface, working in from the edge. Never stir.

  3. A small mound of Oscietra on the back of a hand, a white linen cuff, the open tin below

    The hand.

    The first taste, off the back of the hand. Skin warms it just enough to open the fat.

  4. Three blini with crème fraîche, chives and a quenelle of Oscietra on a white plate, a mother-of-pearl spoon beside them

    Blini.

    Warm, not hot. Crème fraîche and chives, the caviar on top. Or nothing at all.

Four weeks closed. Three days open.

Keep the tin at 28 to 32°F on the coldest shelf, at the back. Never the freezer.

How much to buy

For guests, as , of , you need 180 g: one 125 g and two 30 g tins.

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For red roe, one 100 g jar serves three as the course.